Organically Grown Loopholes

There are two things you don’t want to see being made—sausage and legislation. (Otto von Bismark) 

The 22^nd of April is Earth Day, designed to inspire awareness and appreciation for the Earth's environment.  Yesterday was the 40th anniversary of this movement that was started by the late American Senator, Gaylord Nelson and promoted by a group of eager students, hoping to shape the world from their small office above a diner in D.C.  40 years on and Earth Day is overseen by the Earth Day Network and is observed in 175 Countries. 

One of the most consumer driven aspects of the environmental movement has been the purchasing of organic food.  Market research conducted in 2008 shows that approximately 70% of Americans buy organic food occasionally.  From 1997 to 2008, organic food sales in the U.S. grew around 17-21%.  According to the rules from the United States Department of Agriculture (USDA), ‘organic’ must adhere to specific and regulated standards: Crops are generally grown without synthetic pesticides, artificial fertilizers, irradiation (a form of radiation used to kill bacteria), or biotechnology. Animals on organic farms eat organically grown feed, aren't confined 100 percent of the time and are raised without antibiotics or synthetic growth hormones.  Sounds good?  But how far can that organic seal of approval be stretched? Large-scale corporations and non-family farms control 75% of agricultural production in America.  Unfortunately research would suggest that a handful of giant factory farms are exploiting loopholes in federal regulations, and this is having an effect on the organic food that’s on our plates because of the sheer size of the market that they control.      

In 2008 the organic dairy watchdog found that two of the biggest players in the organic dairy market were not following strict organic standards.  Horizon Organic (a supplier to Wal-Mart and many health food stores); and Aurora Organic, (a supplier of private brand name organic milk to Costco, Safeway, Giant and Wild Oats, amongst others), are purchasing the majority of their milk from dairies where the cows have little or no access to pasture, the Organic Consumers Association also reports that “the calves have been imported from conventional farms, where animals have been weaned on blood, fed slaughterhouse waste and genetically engineered grains, and injected or dosed with antibiotics”.  Together, these corporations control up to 65% of the organic dairy market in the United States. 

 

Organic meat is another gray area due to legislation that was passed in 2003, that allows producers to give their animals conventional feed and still label the meat organic.  For instance, the legislations allows for a pregnant cow to be fed any type of feed in the first and second trimester of her pregnancy, however the cow must be fed organic feed in the third trimester of her pregnancy in order for her calf to be certified as organic.  As was noted in one report, “you can’t be half organic, you are either all organic or you’re not organic at all”. 

Thankfully for every story of deception there are hundreds of examples of local farmers, cooperatives and advocates that are upholding the correct standards for organic farming and fighting for change across America.  I chose to highlight some of the loopholes in the legislation because I was shocked by it and because I realized that I put my faith and confidence in organic actually being a term that was stringently upheld.  I won’t stop buying organic because I still believe that there are producers out there that have consumers interests, health and taste at heart but I will try and be more conscious of the food that I’m purchasing and learn more about the producers and retailers that are selling it to me. 


My thanks goes to Pat Simpson from Yummy Yard, as a Master Gardener he has spent his life fighting for natural food and teaching people the importance of growing their own produce. It was he that opened my eyes to much of what is going on.  If you're in South Florida and would be interested in hearing a seminar from Pat then visit his site: www.yummyyard.com
If you'd like to learn more, the Organic Consumer Association is a very comprehensive site with a wealth of information: www.organicconsumers.org

Move over Colonel, the Koreans are on the way

If you love fried chicken and can’t wait to sit down to your next plate of it, then you and I are probably not going to be dining out together anytime soon.  Fried chicken in any shape or form, from buffalo wings to chicken fingers, simply do not do it for me.  For others though that crispy skin, moist meat, and inexpensive price tag is dinner heaven. 

Frying foods has a long history and in America the history goes like this: Scottish settlers, mainly in America’s South were keen and able fryers (they still are) and aptly fried-off available meats such as chicken.  The Africans that were brought to work on southern plantations incorporated seasonings and spices that were absent in traditional Scottish cuisine thus enriching the flavor.  People liked this addition and they really liked fried chicken and now billions of dollars worth of fried chicken is sold throughout the world.

Fried Chicken is one of those foods that are synonymous with America, much like Apple Pie and Mac and Cheese, and like those dishes, this one is chic again.  Take the much lauded chef David Chang at Momofuku in New York City; he’s serving up two whole chickens, one cooked Southern style with a buttermilk and Old Bay batter, the other with a spicy Korean-style glaze. The chicken comes with Chinese pancakes, pickled sides and a hefty $100 price tag.  The Korean style of frying that’s used at Momofuku and in an increasing number of other restaurants is arguably one of the most interesting methods of chicken frying.  The Korean technique renders out the fat in the skin, transforming it into a thin, crackly crust that’s glazed with a chili sauce, making it the most beloved of all bar food in Korea.  

Not to be outdone, however, fried chicken hype is back in the hands of the biggest chicken frying empire.  The big wigs at KFC have come up with two major promotions launched days apart. First up, the start of the week brought the launch of the KFC Double Down (launched in North America, April 12):  Essentially a sandwich with two KFC fried chicken fillets acting as the slices of bread, in between are two pieces of bacon, melted slices of cheese and the Colonels special sauce.  Packing 32 grams of fat and 1,380 milligrams of sodium, this big guy is no lunchtime chicken salad sandwich.  Two days later, KFC launches its Buckets For the Cure, a charity effort to raise $8.5 million for the Susan G. Komen Breast Cancer Foundation (the largest, grassroots breast cancer movement in the world).  Sales of Special Pink Buckets of grilled or regular fried chicken will donate 50 cent, per bucket, to the cause for the next 6 weeks.  With my keen eye for the obvious it’s interesting that KFC releases one of their unhealthiest products in years (particularly as they’ve been shifting towards a healthier image) and follows it up, days later, with a shiny corporate drive to support breast cancer survival.  I’m guessing there was some internal fighting in the KFC boardroom between those counting the cash and those controlling the image of the company. 

Personally, I’ll pass on the Colonel’s coronary-inducing-cuisine but I have to admit that I’m almost intrigued by the combination of Korean Fried Chicken and a cold beer, so if you’re paying and the chef’s able, then I’m game!  


* The first photo is from a really interesting Korean blog, Zen Kimchi: www.zenkimchi.com/FoodJournal

Guest Blogging: Trend spotting with the ever ripe and brash, Cherie Tomato

Cherie Tomato may look like any regular tomato to you but this tomato has seen and done it all.  Need the inside scoop?  Need the perfect companion at lunch and dinner?  Need someone who keeps it fresh?  Then Cherie is the tomato for you and you can catch her on this blog, on the second Wednesday of every month. 

Stick a slice of bacon in it and call it a trend.  Please, how 2009.  I love bacon but I’ve seen all the contenders – cupcakes with maple frosting and streaky bacon, chocolate with smoked bacon bits, bacon ice cream.  I was chatting to Gordon Ramsay the other day, “darling” he said “everyone is f**king at it, bacon f**king this and that, learn to cook properly and you won’t need so much f**king bacon to make everything taste good”.  Quite when this trend will end I simply don’t know and goodness knows the effect it’s having on vegetarians, poor things miss bacon terribly and here they are, being teased at every turn.  They’ll be campaigning against ice cream next; the Japanese are leading the craze for curious ice cream flavors with their fish and meat varieties, replete with raw meat and fish swirled in for texture.  Now I did see Mojito and Merlot ice cream the other day which pleased me terribly, goodness knows, mummy needs something to keep her sweet, but meat and fish?

I’ll tell you what else is wrong, this miserable economy.  Frugality was fun for a week but keeping up my Champagne lifestyle on a Cava budget is horrific for a pampered tomato like me.  Just the other day I had to trade in my cherry red Ferrari for a convertible VW.  Then I find out that the childhood and freshman favorite, the Grilled Cheese sandwich is being given a gourmet twist.  Fancy cheeses, indulgent fillings, artisan breads, honorary grilled cheese month, nods from celebrity chefs and their cronies.  Grilled Divas more like!  Please, this is just a miserable excuse to make us think we’re eating something grander than we are.  I said to Thomas Keller at the French Laundry the other day, “Do not try and pull a fast one on me and replace my foie gras terrine for a couple of slices of toasted bread with some cheese in it”. 

I did see that two delightful gents in LA have found a marvelous use for a double-decker bus - rip out the seats, turn the lower deck into a state of the art kitchen, install a rooftop dining area and serve up inspired dishes, fresh drinks and some LA sunshine.  Between you and I, this is the most fun I’ve had on wheels since I exited the Rolling Stones tour-bus in the 80s…

Anyway darlings, my Italian cousins, the sundried tomatoes are coming in shortly so I must dash.  If you’ve seen any food “trends” that you’d like to share or events that you feel I really must be at, then drop me a line below.